DSC02448DESCRIPTION

The Window Liners are the window frames (window frames) that one can find at the different raamframes.

They're ready to buy from some company that cockpit stuff to sell. Generally they are very pricey and they should also just fit with the window frame that one uses.

It is also the intention of the ‘Window Liners’ to make one yourself.

The Window Liners are divided into :

  • Middle strut windshield window liner;
  • Side window armrest/Chart holder (Capt and F/O);
  • AFT Lower window liners (Capt and F/O);
  • AFT Upper/Middle window liners (Capt and F/O);
  • FWD Upper/Front window liners (Capt and F/O);
  • Imitation glass (plexi or pvc).

 

AFT LOWER WINDOW LINER

The ‘Aft Lower Window Liner’ is the triangular portion that is located at the rear of the sidewall is between the rear raamframe and the oblique bar at the top of the sidewall.

This Aft Lower Window Liner is provided with a recess in which a lamp is for illumination of the ‘Circuit Breaker Panel’.
In the corner of the Aft Lower Window Liner’ there is also a connection for connecting a coiled cable on the other side is connected to the DV Window Armrest/Chart holder (Shroud). This curly cable is used for the heating of the side window.
At the top of the Aft Lower Window Liner’ is the actual ‘window liner or the edge of the window (window frame) with the rest into one entity.

 

IMG_5875

A real version of the Aft Lower Window Liner

 

CONSTRUCTION AFTER LOWER WINDOW LINER

The construction of the Aft Lower Window Liner is composed of:

  • Wall;
  • Nis for CB-light;
  • Nis for connection to a coiled cable;
  • Recesses for 3 bolts;
  • Window Liner or window frame.

The construction of the After Lower Window Liner’ is not a simple task. Here the triangular opening between the raamframe and the oblique bar will be closed. In this triangular wall have a recess or cavity is patched together with, optionally, a CB-light and a cut-out or mini-niche for the connection of a curly cable for kept the window heating activated (dummy).

In line with the construction of the triangular wall is simultaneously also the lower window frame Lower Window Liner) are manufactured. The "window liner" should be seamlessly integrated at the top of the triangular wall.

Simple is so different...

Side
The triangular wall is made from a mdf panel 3 mm thick. First I have a proof book made out of cardboard to get the right fit, which in outline closely aligned with:

  • the bottom of the rear windowframe;
  • the top of the oblique descending bar;
  • the end of the rear windowframe and oblique bar;
  • the front with the ‘Armrest/Chart holder.

The mdf panel I have provided an opening where the niches should come with CB-light. The outlines or contours of this opening correspond to the circumference of the inside of the niche. M. a.w. before the opening in the mdf panel is created, it is advisable to first niches to tinker ...

This is also true for the square cavity in which the connector for the coiled cable.

 

Nis CB-light
The niche is a wooden bowl with the edges around the nisopening of the wall panel is glued.

As can be seen on images of a real instance this receptacle (nis) a very weird shape. A reverse trapezoid which on one side is very slanted and runs down to the inside dimensions decrease and deeper to the back. Not easy to build ...

For the construction of the nisbakje I mdf used 9 mm thick. The various sides are against each other, glued with wood glue. The edges on the front of the receptacle, I have pretty equivalent sawn/sanded against the back of the wall of 3 mm to glue. The edges (9 mm thick) of the receptacle, so just outside the wandopening for the nis. Afterwards, corners and edges on the front of the wall removed and filled with putty.

To the firmness and to improve the wall of 3 mm, and also to the connection to ensure between the receptacle and the wall I to the rear of the wall panel over the width of 2 wooden bars glued together. One side of the pole rests against the receptacle and the other side against the wall.

 

Lower Window Liner
The Lower Window Liner’ consists not only of the wall with niches, but also the frame of the rear window at the bottom.
This panel is made out of styrofoam. Not the gross white styrofoam that we know of packaging, and styrofoam with a high density and very fine grain. This styrofoam can be found under the name Styrodur (blue or green) or PolyFoam (grey). This piepschuimpanelen be used as insulation material.
This product has the property of being very solid and well machinable (grinding in a correct form).
For the "window liners" have I PolyFoampanelen use of 50 mm thick.

In accordance with the outer circumference of the aluminum windowframe, I have an outline made out of cardboard and this paced a panel PolyFoam. The perimeter I marked on the panel and then cut out with a jigsaw.

Then I have the different sides (top, bottom, and outside edge) of the sawn panel in the correct angle cut, and this in accordance with the various interior angles of the aluminum frameomlijstingen. Corners first can be determined by use of a protractor.

File_000-(6)

I afterwards the perimeter of the inner window opening of the aluminum windowframe paced on card stock. The section cut out of cardboard, I paced on the already cut PolyFoam-panel. This middle section is then cut out.
What now remains is only the raamomlijsting in styrofoam, and this for the rear window (in the form of an overturned U).

In the middle of the bend of the U-shape I have the frame cut in two. Now I have 2 parts: the Lower Window Liner’ and the ‘Upper Window Liner of the rear window. On the real images, one can see that the window frame also separated ...

737 progress 021 (1)
It is the part of the Lower Window Liner’ that we need to get to the top of the wall of 3 mm to integrate as one whole.
Here there is a difficulty and that is that the ‘Window Liner or window frame in a certain angle, in accordance with the angle of the window, connected or must be confirmed with the triangular wall of 3mm.

To this end, I have the styrofoam frame provisionally confirmed in the aluminum raamframe and then the wall is placed as normal on the correct position on the tilt bar.
The opening between achterszijde window frame and the wall, I filled up with wooden blocks. That I cut to size and between the frame and the wall is glued together so that the window frame and the wall in the right corner to continue. The places where the bricks are glued to his, I again reinforced by in between everything to spray it with Tec7.

 

Niches for the confirmation of the krulkabel
At the bottom of the wall one can also find a mini-niche where a krulkabel is confirmed. This as a simulation of kept the window heating activated. The niches according to the same principle, made as the large niche for the CB-light.

 

Recesses with bolt
In the real version of the wall, there are also 3 cups with a bolt. Since our mdf panel 3 mm thick, there is little thickness to a cavity of a drilling or milling. Therefore, I have on the back of the 3-mm panel has a wooden block glued on the place where the erosion has to come. Now we can rest by the panel drilling for the erosion.

 

FINISH OF THE LOWER WINDOW LINER

If all of the edges and corners of the wall with the niche(s) are filled with filler and beautiful gladgeschuurd is the turn to the raamboord out of styrofoam, to strengthen and to finish.

The intention is, first, the styrofoam extra sanding until the shape is the correct surfaces and curves. After the styrofoam to be consolidated to a hard and sturdy surface and prepared for painting.

Acrylic One
In a previous process, for strengthening of the styrofoam, which I middenstrut of the windhield’ have finished, I have epoxy resin used, and this together with glass cloth and shipping to most european countries.
The epoxy resin I have now been replaced by’ Acrylic One‘. I have found that the use of epoxy resin is cumbersome and not particularly healthy to breathe in.
The idea is to opt for "Acrylic One" comes from a fellow cockpitbouwer Dion (Prosim nickname: Dion73).

Acrylic One‘ it is a mixture of powder and liquid with a slurry, obtain one with a soft brush can smooth, for example, polystyrene. After a drying time of 1Hr is the coatings hard and ready for sanding. You can compare it with plaster, but much harder. Acrylic One is easy to use and is particularly odorless.

To try I have a test kit purchased at Poly-Service (EN). All about Acrylic One is comprehensively explained on their website:
http://www.acrylicone.nl/
http://www.acrylicone.nl/Education/Youtube

In this test kit, I also got a bottle of Acrylic One Thix A bought. This liquid can be extra to the mixture do to the slurry to thicken so that the mixture becomes thicker and less liquid. Good for large grooves or holes to fill.

Now, what is the procedure?

After the mixing, (1 min) of the correct proportions (1 gewichtsmaat liquid LPO1 Liquid and 2 gewichtsmaten powder LPO1 Powder) the mixture is ready for use. This mixture is +- 20 min useful.

  • A layer of Acrylic One mixture to the styrofoam with the supplied soft brush;
  • When this layer is still wet then add a layer of glass cloth over it (it is recommended that the glass cloth in advance cut to size – time-saving!);
    Note. In the test kit, there is also glass cloth but which is much too coarse to use. Glass cloth with a finer structure is easier and better to work.
  • After the application of the glass cloth is again a layer of Acrylic One over it applied.
    All actions happen in succession without waiting for curing.

To the firmness additional to improve, one can possibly these 3 repeat the process. For the ‘Window liners’ is sufficient to do this but once.
After 1Hr all would be cured, but I for safety, waiting until the next day.

 

Cured Acrylic One is easy to sand but the grooves that are created by the painting brush are not always easy to get. Especially not when one is a thickener used.

The surface is still not flat and smooth this through the use of the painting brush, the glass cloth and imperfections in the styrofoam.

The objective of the use of Acrylic One with glass cloth is, in fact, the styrofoam hard to make and strengthen ... more.

I have therefore, after the first scour off a thin layer of body filler applied. This can filler with particles of glass fiber or shipping to most european countries. This can be the surface is flatter and better barns to a shiny and smooth surface.
Also the transitions between the wooden wall and the styrofoam should be filled. These transitions must be seamless and together form one whole.
The smoothing and grinding are repeated until all surfaces to your liking. Patience, patience, patience ... 🙂

Then it's time to paint. First, a layer of primer and then the paint in Boeinggrijs (ACC Color Map R6.06.30).
These paintings are done with a spray can. This can be done outside on the lawn with no wind and dry weather.


Confirmation

The confirmation of the ready-made wall with the window liner’ I carried out with small L-profiles on the back of the wall on the angled bar rest. The wall is clamped against the flat batten to the inside on the slant bar is made.

Furthermore, on the back of the ‘window liner’ (window frame) double-sided tape to the window liner’ against the window to paste.

 

GRIMES CB LIGHT

The light bulb that you can find in the niche of the Aft Lower Window Liner’ to the bottom of the various circuit breaker panels to illuminate.

This light is pretty easy to build and serves just as decoration. It is in my cockpit, not operational (dummy).

What do you need for this:

  • Thin aluminum plate of 0.6 mm thick + 2 small screws;
  • Round wooden stick;
  • A wooden plate of 3 mm thick;
  • A plastic ring;
  • 2 sticks of wood or plexiglas;
  • An aluminum frame of 0.6 mm thick (if of wood);
  • Transparent picture of a white/gray color (imitation frosted glass – this can crop an empty bus of white plastic where e.g. anti-freeze has resident);
  • One homemade sticker;
  • 2 triangular, oval plates;
  • 3 screws (2 screws to the metal plate in the nis to confirm and 1 to the light on the picture to confirm).
    .
    The dimensions of the parts can be found on the images. The dimensions would correspond to a real instance as an owner of an original light everything is to me measured.

Construction

  • You bend the aluminium plate around the wooden stick. The middle of the picture should correspond with the midline of the cylindervormig rod;
  • On the back you attach with 2 screws to the plate against the wooden stick;
  • You are cutting out a wooden plate in the shape of the top and glue it on the top of the round rod. The round edges of the image should match the circle of the rod. The bottom let open;
  • Afterwards, glue the top edges of the aluminum plate against the sides of the wooden plate;
  • 2 sticks of wood or plexiglas are then left and right on the front glued in the inside of the aluminum plate. They serve for the attachment of the frame to the front;
  • The aluminium frame (or wood) is then glued against the bars at the front and between the curved aluminum plate;
  • A plastic ring is about the cylindervormig rod inserted and glued (lookalike);
  • Exposed edges of aluminum are removed or weggevijld;
  • Bumps are eliminated with putty and afterwards gladgeschuurd;
  • Then follows the painting in one primer and paint (matte-black);
  • Then a plastic plate with white color (imitation frosted glass) in the inside of the bulb is glued.
  • The last part is one sticker attached on the CB indicator on the Capt side. On the FO side, no label is needed since the sticker can't see :-).

Confirmation

The confirmation of the CB-led is done via an aluminium triangular oval picture. There are 3 holes drilled in it. One hole is for the led to confirm, and the 2 others to the picture to confirm it in the niche.

First I in the nis the 3 holes in advance and in accordance with the holes in the aluminum plate. The picture I have attached with 2 screws, and last is the light on the picture screwed.
From the bottom of the niche is a screw in the bottom of the bulb holder (rod) is rotated so that the light is tightened on the metal plate .
It is recommended that first a hole is to be drilled in the bottom of the round post of the lamp. Afterwards, the light is easier to screw up.

The last part, I have a picture (decal) engraved in the inside of the niche to the glue.

 

CURLY CABLE FOR KEPT THE WINDOW HEATING ACTIVATED

On images of the real version you see below in the corner of the Aft Lower Window Liner’ a connector to which a curled cable is connected. On the other side, this cable is connected with a connector in the DV Window Armrest/Chart holder (Shroud)’. The curly cable is used for kept the window heating activated.

As a simulation I've used the ‘Aft Lower Window Liner’ and the ‘Armrest/Chart holder is also equipped with 2 terminals. For the 2 terminals I have plugs used for the connection of a hand mike with a CB radio. These plugs I have on the outer edges, matte-black painted.

The curly cables are e.g. also used for hand mikes and in different versions and lengths available from an electronics store or on the Internet.

For the Armrest/Chart holder, I first drilled a hole with a hole that matches the diameter of the plug. The plug I have in the hole, glued it with Tec 7.

The Aft Lower Window Liner is also equipped with a small alcove with a hole for the plug. The plug is on the back confirmed via a lock nut.

 

Translated by Yandex.Translate and Global Translator