The Window Liners are the window frames (window frames) that one can find at the different raamframes.

They're ready to buy from some company that cockpit stuff to sell. Generally they are very pricey and they should also just fit with the window frame that one uses.

It is also the intention of my "Window Liners" themselves.

The Window Liners are divided into :

  • Middle strut windshield window liner;
  • Side window armrest/Chart holder (Capt and F/O);
  • AFT Lower window liners (Capt and F/O);
  • AFT Upper/Middle window liners (Capt and F/O);
  • FWD Upper/Front window liners (Capt and F/O);
  • Imitation glass (plexi or pvc).



The window frames of the front windows (windshield) and the side windows are filled with plexiglas of 4 mm thickness. The common thickness used by different cockpitbouwers be used ranges from 2 mm to 4 mm. 2mm is maybe a little too thin, and 4 mm is perhaps too thick. A thickness of 4 mm is stronger but harder to get to folds.

The plexiglass I purchased at Benvitec in Beringen (B). Not far from my home address, and so itself going to order and pick up.

A different address e.g.

The plexiglass is coated on both sides with protective foil and hold it against scratches or any minor damages.
Still, I give the advice to the surface to check upon delivery. In the company where you buy it they can be rather crude way of dealing with these things (it would not normally be allowed) but for me I do have a few scratches discovered.
Unfortunately, you see this only when you have the protective film on both sides removed. So, in principle, to let ...

I have this glass-plastic glazing made to measure and saw that is the correct length and width. 2 rectangular pieces for the front windows and 2 rectangular pieces for the two side windows.



To the proper dimensions to obtain the frameopeningen I have the inside edges of the window frames measured in length and width and the angles with a protractor.

I have all the dimensions in a correct form, and marked on the rectangular plexipanelen.





To prevent the plexi will crack during the saw, I have the marked lines to which paper schildertape and this on both sides. The plastic protective film is also already in service, but an extra security can't hurt. Plexi is quite susceptible to cracks.

The cutting itself is done with an ordinary hacksaw. If possible, a saw with small teeth. This cuts easier, especially to start. Otherwise, you can first make a start with a hacksaw.

The saw can also be done with a jigsaw with a saw suitable for plastics and therefore also one with small teeth.
Cutting with a jigsaw is done faster but then it is recommended that the plexipaneel to fix between 2 boards to prevent the plexi goes up and down move during cutting. Risk on crack ! Also should the saw not be quickly recognized. Risk of melting the plexi by the heat of the saw at a quick zaagbeweging.
To play it safe I do have the sawmill running with a regular handsaw.

The saw is made with the saw blade as far as possible horizontally. Safer against cracking and is easier.

The corners and edges I rounded and gladgeschuurd with a file and sandpaper.

Afterwards, it is of course necessary to check the plexipanelen fit in the window frames.

The problem is with the FlyEngravity window frames is that the buitenzijdes of the frames to within. So you can't forward the plexi in the frames places. There always come a little plooiwerk to adjust for this to succeed.
It was also required a few bolts to unscrew that the window frames are connected.


Blinding (shades) of the side windows with black foil

Once the sawing is finished, I have the outside of the side windows full cover (stickers) with black matte foil. This foil is also used for the covering of cars.

By the plexiglass covering with a black foil one sees on the outside is a black matte surface and the inside, therefore not covered, it gives the effect of a black stained glass window or visibility from the inside to the outside on a night flight. So you can see clearly that there is glass in the windows is like a real aircraft.

The external view is nil, but that is the idea. I have only the ‘outside view’ to see the scenery and not all the stuff in the cockpitkamer.
Maybe later when I might want to expand to a 180°-view, I can still always the foil of the front side windows remove. That is no problem.

The price of the black plexiglass is remarkably more expensive than just crystal clear and transparent plexiglas. Therefore, I chose to make the windows to let stickers with black foil. This gives the same effect. I was lucky enough this free, to be done by someone with experience.
You can do the job yourself, but there is still a little bit of skill when required. It should be completely flat and tight to be executed without air under the film because every small luchtblaasje one sees on the inside.




Then is the turn to the plexiramen in the window frames to assemble.

The mounting is done with bolts, 10 mm length and 4 mm thickness.

I have the plexi side windows first provisionally fixed with sergeants (terminals).

For the front windows (windshield), there was no place for the use of sergeants. Here I have some double sided tape to the inside of the frames have been made.

Then I have all the necessary holes drilled in the plexi. These holes (4mm) were easy to drill since the FlyEngravity window frames already had pre-drilled bevestigingsgaatjes. Only the holes in the front side windows, I still need more. Then, it is simply the hole in the window frame to follow through the plexi.

Afterwards, through each hole, a bolt inserted and tightened by the associated nut (not too tight, the risk for cracks).

Later can easily be removed for the fastening of the window liners.



The front windows (windshield) I have the internals finished with a plastic afboordstrip. Otherwise, you can look at the sawn-off plexirand of the plexipanelen and that is not so nice. The plastic strip is light grey sprayed and attached using the bolts for the plexipanelen.

For the side windows, there is no further finishing done. This comes later when attaching the window liners.




Outside the front windows (windshield) and side we have the ‘Eyebrow windows’ or the small windows that are on the left and on the right, just above the front windows.

I have a second hand set on the head can tap-probably a B737-300.

I have this ‘mini’-windows classified to the ‘Ceiling’ or the ceiling of the cockpit. It is also a little bit in the interior.

All information regarding the renovation and installation of these ‘Eyebrow windows’ is to be found on the following page :




Also a part of the ‘windows’, more specifically of the ‘ windshield’, are the windscreen wipers (wipers).

Not that I rain expected in my cockpitroom but this is a part to the realism of the cockpit up to boost.

The dummy-windshield wipers are pretty easy on the ‘windshield’ to assemble. What do we need ?

  • 2 windshield wipers;
  • 2 aluminum rods;
  • 2 metal L-profiles;
  • bolts with nuts;
  • 8 Alu M4 Dzus replicas.


I have the windshield wipers purchased at Of Cranenbroek in Budel (NL). These wipers are made of plastic and costs almost nothing (+- €3 per piece). The length of a windshield wiper is 38 cm. This length indicates the top of the ‘windshield’ a clearance of 2 cm. A length of 40 cm would maybe just can ...

Aluminum rods

The rods are the hefboompjes (connections) between the wipers and the L-profiles. These rods are cut from aluminum of 2 mm thick. They have a length of 15 cm. The ends with a file and a bit rounded.


These L-profiles are available in any do-it-yourself thing. These serve to make the alloy rods with wipers to confirm against the window frames.

Rods, bolts, Dzus's and profiles I have in a black color painted.


First I tapped (4 mm) in the wiper and at its junction with the rod. Then I have the stick on the top of the windshield wiper is screwed with a screw of 4 mm.
Between rod and bolt, I did have a Dzus replica placed.

For the fastening of the rod with a windshield wiper I have the L-profile in the middle and at the bottom of the FlyEngravity - window-frame is screwed. The other end of the aluminum rod is then at the front of the L-profile is screwed.

Between profile and rod, I have 2 Dzus replicas are placed and another one between the chip and bolt. This Dzus's more for the ‘lookalike’ and for a difference in level.

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