The Grimes Lights are the small black spots with a red ‘butt’ in the middle of the sidewalls. There is one in the left-hand sidewall and one in the right sidewall.

They serve as auxiliary to, here and there to lights. This ‘Grimes Lights are also detachable. The small red cone to the lamp on or off; and the button you need to hold the lamp to shine. Letting go means that the lamp turns off.

The red disk (from which the button protrudes) is a hub and is in fact a dimmer. From 0 to 100%.

The front of the lamp also has a twist mechanism. Thus, you can bring up a transparent red van into position (in the reflector of the lamp) which causes the lamp to a red light starts spreading. Useful in a darkened cockpit.

The name ‘Grimes’ comes from the American Warren G. Grimes. The father of the Aircraft Lighting Industry". Here we are thinking of the well-known red, green and white navigation lights found on the wing tips and the tail ... To name but a few.

I have this ‘Grimes Lights’ built on the principle of my "Map Lights" that are found left and right of the ‘Forward Overhead. This ‘Grimes Lights’ are therefore not equipped with all the bells and whistles as the real version. They work as normal lights and are controllable via one of the buttons on the ‘Map Light Panel that is on the sidewall table.


The real version




A ‘Grimes’commercial is composed of the following components :

  • The front end cap is made of a plastic cap of a milk bottle.
    Dimensions : Diameter 45 mm Width edge : 16 mm.
  • Round plastic plate if imitation frosted glass for in the front end cap (cut out from the lid of a plastic box in which the ice cream sat).
    Dimensions : 30 mm.
  • The middle section or central housing is a pvc sleeve a keukenafvoerbuis or tuinsproeisysteem.
    Dimensions : Length : 45 mm – Diameter inside : 40 mm – Diameter outside : 47 mm.

  • The red cap on the back comes from a cap of a Aquarius frisdrankflesje. The upper narrower portion is sawed off.
    Dimensions : Diameter : 40 mm Width edge : 12 mm.
  • Around cover, rear cap. This I have to create a local an engraver.
    Dimensions : Diameter : 30 mm.
  • The small round mini-cap the red part is the cut round part of a plug that one into the inside of a cabinet is sticking to the shelves.
    Dimensions : Diameter : 7 mm – Length : 7 mm.
  • The black decal the red back is engraved by a local an engraver.
    Dimensions : Diameter : 30 mm.
  • The curly cable comes from the Range and is an extension cable to use in a car.
    Dimensions :– Length : 45 cm Length stretched : 3 m.

  • The tripod at the bottom of the ad is a swivel ballhead for a camera tripod. This can be the spot in all directions.
    This swivel ballhead I've found in Dealextreme.com – Item no.: 146322
    Dimensions : Length including thread : 57 mm – Width: thickest part : 25 mm.
  • In the inside of the central casing or sleeve is a bulb holder with retaining ring in which an led lamp. This bulb holder I purchased at a local electrozaak.
  • In the bulb there is a led that is dimmable (type MR11-12 SMD 12-24V 2.4 W) – Ledlampendirect.nl.
    Article number : 50040800.
  • A small lusterklem or wire connector.
  • The decal on the hull of the light is a homemade sticker.
    Dimensions Lxw = 33 mm x 41 mm.
  • Fixing plate. This mounting plate has 3 holes. The center hole is 6 mm and serves for the attachment of the swivel ball head.
    The other 2 holes are for bolts of 4 mm.
    Dimensions : Lxw = 60 mm x 18 mm

The full length of the ‘Grimes’ Light is 72 mm.



The cap to the front, middle and rear section, I first provide a primer.

Then, the cap of the front part and the middle part is painted in a matte black color. The cap of the front should also be on the inside to be painted (no light!).

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The rear section is in a deep red painted ( Model Revell no. 34).
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Note. The primer and the black colour is applied with a spray can. This gives a nice smooth result.

The red color is applied with a brush.



  • The connection plate of the central housing is already at the right size and should not be modified. At the bottom of the sleeve there is a hole drilled at a distance of 20 mm the front edge of the sleeve.
    Afterwards, in this hole a wire tapped from 6 mm to the lampstatiefje threaded in brackets.
    Then, there is a small hole drilled just behind the hole of the tripod and this on a 11 mm of the rear edge of the sleeve. This is the curly cable to the inside of the sleeve.
  • In the front end cap I have in the middle a round opening run with a diameter of 35 mm. Also the excellent plastic threads on the inside of the cap with a knife to be removed. This is to the edge of the bulb holder easier in the cap to make them fit.
  • The round plastic plate (imitation, milk glass) I have with a few drops of glue in the inside on the edge of the front cap is glued.
  • Then the led mounted in the bulb holder with the retaining ring. Afterwards, you can the first wiring connection. With the purchase of the bulb holder is there already a connector with wiring (15 cm). You can the wires be trimmed so that they are easier in the mof to eliminate.
  • The metal hooks with spring of the bulb holder, the metal holder is taken and rotated on their axis so that the barbs at the squint point inwards. Otherwise, sticking the barbs to the outside and therefore also outside of the ad and that is not the intention.
  • The bulb holder with led is now in the socket is pushed.
    On the inside of the sleeve is edge where you first over should.
    On the back of the socket now get the barbs out. These barbs are then more to the inside, folded so that they are equal with the edge of the sleeve. Otherwise the barbed too much from the sleeve so that the rear cap is difficult in the mof can be applied.
  • The bulb holder with led is good if the front edge of the holder against the front edge of the sleeve.
  • Now is the curly wire is inserted through the drilled hole and connected with the cable of the lamp. This happens with a lusterklem (B) or terminal block (EN). It is there, it is best to cut in half so that both halves easier way to work in the mof. Also the cables can be trimmed.
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  • The mini-tripod or swivel ballhead now can the sleeve be rotated. It is sufficient that the thread just from the inside of the sleeve.
  • Then is the turn to the cap or the cap with the frosted glass on the front of the ad. The cap fits right over the collar of the bulb and is attached with a 4 ‘nuggets’ with superglue. This is to make it possible the cap may have to be able to remove ...
  • The red lid is still has the black round decal. First is careful a hole (8 mm) drilled in the decal to the small red uitsteksel it to cross. The decal must be properly fit with the round circle top red cap. The decal is then with superglue on the cap glued.
  • The red cap on the back is attached by the bracket to slide. The red plug is in the socket is pushed so far that it is seated where the 7 to 8 mm of the ribbed part still would have to stick out.
  • The last part is the sticker applied. If the sticker is made with stickerpapier the back is plain with a glued edge. Otherwise one may thin double-sided adhesive tape.I have the sticker and finished with a few small stoffeernageltjes with round head.



The confirmation of the ‘Grimes’ Light at the sidewall is done with a bolt of 6 mm. This bolt goes through the rear of the sidewall through the sidewall around the inside cockpit.

The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the material which the sidewall is made.

On the inside of the sidewall I still have an extra mounting plate provided with an opening for the 6 mm bolt with above and below a hole for a 4 mm-bolt. This will provide some realism.

I have noticed that the threads of the bolt completely matches the thread of the steering head where the bolt is not fully in the steering head can be rotated. But a few revolutions is enough to the ad to fix ...



One can notice that the ad is completely closed. The led indicates no excessive heat. This is negligible.

As a test, I have the ad for 2 hours to burn. After these 2 hours, there were no oververhittingsverschijnselen where to take. Only the cover on the front and the front of the sleeve to be a little warm.

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In order to gain the necessary verluchtiging to give can be even at the bottom of the ad what verluchtingsgaatjes drilling.

In the construction of the ‘Map Lights’ (left and right of the Fwd OVH), I have even done a test with a halogen bulb. Not a good idea! The case began after a while, ductile and to melt ...

Translated by Yandex.Translate and Global Translator