DESCRIPTION

The build of the ‘sidewalls’ is again another challenge of this cockpit. The sidewalls or sides of the cockpit is a collection of the various side walls, and opbouwonderdelen and of the different ‘window liners’ (edging side).

For the dimensions I have based on the dimensions that are to be found on Markuspilot.com and the various drawings of the Norwegian Vidar Fagerjord. I have also taken into account with the dimensions of my own cockpit and comparisons made with photos of the real version.

All this info is in the big pot, thrown from which a private concept as a result. Preferably as closely as possible, such as that found in the real B737-800 ... 🙂

 

COMPOSITION

The composition of a ‘sidewall’ consists of :

  • DV Window Armrest/Chart holder;
  • Underlying continuous crossbar;
  • Side wall front side (Forward Sidewall Liner);
  • Side panel rear (After Sidewall Liner);
  • Table front;
  • Cover pipelines back (After raceway covers);
  • In - and opbouwonderdelen (chapter);
  • Window Liners (separate chapters).

 

MEASURE AND ADJUST

In the construction I have been able to find that the window frames of FlyEngravity not exactly 100% correct. When I the line through the bottom of the front side window (and so also the side of the ‘Window Armrest’) I come to the rear far out of my cockpit. The line is not flush with the rear side window.

For the continuous beam inside the cockpit to keep am I required between the front and rear side window angle (bend). Not exactly very realistic, but there is no other way out. By the way a fellow builder has these window frames also, and has in the construction of sidewalls the same problem. He also has a bend should make the crossbar ...

Further, it is to measure, adjust, measure, adjust, and ... to make compromises.

 

DV WINDOW ARMREST/CHART HOLDER

The ‘window armrest/chart holder for most at home with the ‘window liners’. That will be discussed in a separate chapter.

http://www.flightdeck737.be/hardware/platform/window-liners/

 

 

SIDEBAR SIDEWALLS

For the construction of the sidewalls or sides of the cockpit, I first started with the thick sidebar from the front/side MIP runs to the back of the cockpit.
This bar is located between the Dv Window armrest/Chart holder’ and the top of the ‘sidewall’.

I'm with the bar started since those at the bottom of the windowframes need to connect. You also have a better idea of how the "sidewalls" should come t.o.v. the underside of the bar.

I have in the construction of the sidebar can be found that a straight bar from front to back runs on the end outside the cockpitshell true. The windowframes are correctly made, so the problem could lie in the construction of the windowframes themselves.

So I am forced to a corner (corner or bend) to the inside and this at the height of the end of the front side window.

DSC00885

Another cockpitbouwer with the same windowframes of FlyEngravity sitting with the same problem and also has a bend (angle) to the beam to within the cockpitshell to stay. Very strange so ...

The bar, from just wood, it is planed where the inner faces the edges are rounded. The width the bar is 100 mm and the thickness 60 mm. These dimensions should match the dimensions of the real one.

 

The bar starts on the side of the glareshield which is 100 mm below the windshield edge. Surplus, which can later be weggezaagd.

The bend in the bar, I have made these mitre-saw-so the second half, on the outside at the end of the bar just inside the cockpitframe. The connections I have made with long heavy screws through the back of the bar. The two connected parts should absolutely not move. Later the corner on the inside editing with putty. At the slightest movement or shift can the body filler to crack ...

The preliminary confirmation of the sidebar happens to the front with an upright bar with a couple of bolts at the side of the MIP-table is confirmed.

Under the bend in the sidebar is also an upright steunbalkje confirmed that on the floor of the cockpitkamer rest.

The final confirmation is done when the sidewalls are placed. The bar rests on the panels of the sidewall. On the front is the upright wooden bar is removed and the bar attached to the bottom with an L-profile at the outside of the front sidewall.
In the middle of the bar is the upright bar is also removed, and as at the front of the bar is also attached with a metal profile on the sidewalls. Ditto at the end of the bar.

Theoretically, at the end, and the underside of the bar a 440 mm be removed with the floor of the cockpit (top Aft raceway cover ?).

Sidewall

At the end of the sidebar is to the real version a small stand-up slope or ramp.

zijbalk schans

That indentation I made from a wooden triangular block that I have on the sidebar've glued. On the outer edges of the triangle, I have half round wood frames or slats placed.

Afmetingen schans

Finish of the bar

As can be seen on photos of a real B737 cockpit, there is an elongated guard at the front of the bar (just above the steering tiller’ and under the ‘armrest’).

kap

This top (cover) I made from aluminum. This cover runs the length diagonally to within the central portion – the portion above the steering tiller’ – even more inward deflected.
A portion above the steering tiller is also in a slight arch cut out. All this to create more space above the steering tiller whereby the turning this is easier.

This guard is on the top folded back so that the omgeplooide edge (35 mm) can be used to against the underside of the bar to screw in.
To the rear there is also a corner to the inside, folded.
If preliminary design of the protective cap is first in cardboard.

The thickness of the aluminum is 1 mm.

Then I have the bar on the side with 3 notch holes which subsequently screws are rotated with round head (for show of course).

On the top of the bar I have from the end of the ‘armrest’ to the slope of the ramp an mdf batten attached with a thickness of 12 mm. In this batten are a 3-many notches milled which also screws to be turned with the round head. This to all a little bit true to look.

Then it is the turn of the dullest work, namely, the filling. All cracks, openings, seams or bumps are covered with a thin layer of body filler.

Extra filler is needed to make the transition from the bar with the aluminum top cover and out of the way to work. Also the nice finishing of the ramp at the end has extra filler is needed.
Around the corner (bend) in the inside of the bar is better working I have the corner also filled with filler (layer by layer) so that the result is a gentle curve.

After the curing of the body filler is all gladgeschuurd. Then, where necessary, re-putty applied, e.g. to the transition bar/metal cover way to work and for the fijnafwerking of the ramp at the end of the bar.
And after drying back to sanding.
We repeat the filling and sanding until we get the desired result (patience is indeed a beautiful gift).

For fairing applications, I have 2 types of filler used, a coarse filler in which pieces of fiberglass to sit, and fine, smooth blocks. Both of them are in a tube available. The coarse filler is used for activities where there is a thick layer can be applied and the fine, smooth filler for the finer finishing.

Opm. Previously, I have the sidebar already attached onto the sidewall to the correct position and the beam at the rear, marked with the appropriate line on which points the beam should correspond to the place on the sidewalls.
After the complete finish of the bar is it will make it easier to insert and to confirm.

Then follows one or two paint jobs with a primer with subsequently one or more lakbeurten in Boeing grey (RAL 7011 or ACC R6.06.30).
The painting is actually done with a can of spray paint (primer and paint).

After the varnishing, I have the bar with the necessary screws with round head.

Confirmation of the bar

The final confirmation of the bar occurs when all parts of the sidewalls and, and also, all permanently installed.

The bar is first under the ‘armrest’ pushed so far that the edge of the sidebar, parallels the edge of the ‘armrest’.
The sidebar is so far pushed forward, so that the metal cover (above the steering tiller) at the front on the corner of the front ‘sidewall’. This must be all in advance uitgepast so that the metallic cover in advance still can folds. Folds of the metal cover after the painting is unfortunately no longer > result in cracks and sanding of the body filler...

The bar is then at the bottom in 3 places confirmed with the upright panels of the sidewall (front, middle and rear). This can be done with small metal L - or I-profiles.

On the inside of the overlay mdf batten have over the entire length, from ‘armrest’ to the ramp, a metal rail attached. This is to the ‘look-alike’ of the rail on which the front window is opened (purely for show).
This rail I made from an old aluminium curtain rail. This rail is painted matte black.

FWD SIDEWALL LINERS

The forward sidewall’ is to be found under the ‘Dv Window armrest/Chart holder is comprised of a table and vertical panels.

In the table the holes for the installation of the ‘folder panel light’, ‘oxygen panel’, ‘console document pocket’ and ‘drink cup holder’.

In the vertical panels, there are openings for the steering tiller, ashtray and ‘audio port’.

De echte versie

The real version

NOTE: The ‘sidewalls’ I have a 40 mm need to move to the outside. My C130-cockpitstoelen are very wide (much wider than the B737-seats) and getting in and out of the cockpit to get, I have a minimal amount of space needed between seat and pedestal. Hence this additional modification.

Regarding the size of the horizontal (table) and vertical panels, I have tried me to keep to the dimensions indicated in Markuspilot.com and also of the Norwegian Vidar Fagerjord. But with this latest knock, the dimensions do not completely. These dimensions are too large.
Further, I have directed mainly at photos of the real in order to approximate the size to determine.

Afmetingen tafel copy

My cockpit is on a increase or platform on which the ‘sidewalls’ in part, outside this platform fall. This made it extra hard to part in different levels to build.

The panels are all MDF, and this 9 mm and 18 mm. They are mainly glued together and then fitted with screws and metal profiles to the outside for an extra reinforcement. Here and there on the seams on the outside I still Tec7 used.

The top of the vertical panels of the sidewall close to the bottom of the sidebar and the ‘sidewall’ of the necessary support to the sidebar. This sidebar is also on the front and the middle is connected with a metal clamping profile in order to meet the ‘sidewalls’.

The seams of the ‘sidewalls’ are still filled with houtplamuur and afterwards nicely rounded sanded. Furthermore, the panels and sides to be provided with poriënvuller and then sanded for a smoother result.

The forward sidewalls are fixed on the floor of the cockpit with a small L-profiles. This in places where they do not appear or are not noticed.

 

 

AFT SIDEWALL LINERS

This rear portion of the sidewall close to the ‘Fwd sidewall liner, and thus form together one whole.

2324665

The side is provided with a louver and also of a storage compartment in which certain things may be storing such as documents or the gear pin.

The front of the storage compartment is closed with a MDF panel 6 mm thickness. The other panels are 9 mm and 18 mm thick.

The same information which can be found in the ‘Fwd Sidewall Liners’ is applicable for the Aft Sidewall Liners.

 

THE FINISH OF THE FWD AND AFT SIDEWALL LINERS

The finish is done by first using the corners to fill with putty. I did this with a filler is used, which is pretty thick let fill (5mm). To the corners to the desired thickness to fill I have a rubber the appropriate applicator is used. Those spatulas you can buy in a do-it-yourself-shop and in all forms. You can also use the point of a koffielepeltje use.

After sufficient drying, the filler smooth. If necessary, a second coat of filler is necessary.

On the surfaces and ends I afterwards a thin layer of poriënvuller are applied, which after drying, lightly sand. This to small cracks or holes to fill, and everything is smoother. It is then advisable the space to vent! No healthy stuff ...

Afterwards it is the turn to a layer of primer. The back I painted with a soft brush and roller. The front or inside of the cockpit with a can of spray paint. For this I universal primer (synthetic) which has a good adhesion and suitable for use on all surfaces.

After this primer, I have everything lightly sand with fine sandpaper with a fine grit (360). Thereafter follows the coating.

A friend of cockpitbouwer (JWS), I have a Sikkens formula that is the most similar to the real color of the varnish. Sikkens is AKZO Nobel. AKZO makes the paint for KLM (and other airlines).

The Sikkens formula water based :
Satura 1 ltr basis WO5
WR1-0,6
WY1 - 5
WZ1-12

The painting of the sidewalls, I want to run with a can of spray paint. Unfortunately, there is no paint used are water-based. Only synthetic paint (for now) suitable for spray cans.Of other cockpitbouwers I have different RAL codes received that are eligible for the color of the sidewalls. Matter which is right or which most closely matches the real color of the sidewalls...

  • RAL 7035?
  • RAL 9003?
  • RAL 9002?
  • RAL 7047?

Compare with photos is not a good guide as photos taken in different lighting conditions such as sunlight, artificial light, exposure of the camera ...
And also taking into account :

  • paint on an aluminum substrate other than paint on wood or any other material;
  • paint indoors or under FLUORESCENT lighting is very different than paint outside in the sunlight;
  • paint on a similar primer is different than any other type of primer;
  • spray is different than kwastlak;
  • taking photos (especially in-house) often requires choices in terms of exposure (or no flash) with all the consequences for reproduction.

My choice to make, I just kept to the palette of Sikkens.
The 4 RAL-codes as mentioned above, I had compared and the only one which is not too dark or too light, according to me RAL 9002 or Sikkens ACC code G8-03-79. This is of course a personal choice.

After the application of the varnish, I am very satisfied with the result despite the ignorance that it truly is the right color ... 🙂

For info: The real OEM Boeingkleur for the sidewalls and other components with the same color would be Federal Standard 595 Color FS 36440’.

.

After the paint is applied can all the components that are found on the Fwd/Aft Sidewalls are to be built or confirmed :

  • Steering Tiller;
  • Cover Steering Tiller with sticker (Left, Center, Right);
  • Chart/Map light panels;
  • Oxygen panels;
  • Console document pockets;
  • Cup Holders;
  • Grimes Lights;
  • Ash-trays (ashtrays);
  • Hand Mics;
  • Audio Ports;
  • Louvers;
  • Metal board, Aft Sidewall Liners’;
  • Nuts, bolts and screws;
  • Decals.

Explanation of how these different in/opbouwonderdelen are made or where purchased is to be found on the following page :

http://www.flightdeck737.be/hardware/platform/zijpanelen/inopbouwonderdelen-new/

 

 

 

AFT RACEWAY COVERS

On the floor of the cockpit and in line with the ‘Aft siderwall liner’ can be found on both sides of the Aft Raceway covers’.

Under this black ribbed lids are a mass of bundles of wires and cables that go to the front in the direction of instrument panel walk. Matter to anywhere.

It is also the habit of the crew that they all put their bag with vliegdocs in places ...

2324665 sidewall_737

The wooden ‘cover’ is made from MDF and the ridges on it made of wooden slats, in the shape of a triangle. To find in a do-it-yourself business or trade.

The oblique sides – left and right – I have slanted cut. They are on the MDF panel glued with wood glue. Afterwards, must have all edges and holes can be filled with houtplamuur.
After a low poriënvuller everything is nice and smooth-sanded and provided with a primer followed by a coat of black color (Soft Satin).

The ‘Aft Raceway Covers are on the floor of the cockpit, mounted with a few bolts.

 

Afmetingen-raceway

 

 

The finish

The rough construction of the " raceway covers’, I first edited with filler. I have performed a test with a-filling schilderskit of Bison (as was the instructions) but that did not well to sanding. There were pieces that, for the necessary holes provided. So it is not suitable!

After a bit of searching, I have a putty found that is better for the editing and barns. You can putty application to a thickness of max 5 mm (without cracking). Coincidentally, fits on the tube with a standard spuittuitje to the filler easier, and at the right place. Only with a spatula is more difficult.

All openings, holes and slits may be dichtgesmeerd with a drying time of 24hrs. Everything is sand with sanding paper with a grit of 320/360.

If everything is gladgeschuurd I have the " raceway covers’ painted with a transparent poriënvuller. This poriënvuller is also used in the model building and ensures that a surface is still smoother and also firmer. After drying everything lightly sand. The poriënvuller is not a healthy thing and good ventilation is necessary. The used paintbrushes with poriënvuller can be subsequently cleaned with Acetone.

Now, we can have a layer of primer or base coat, (All-Grund). This primer is synthetic-based and is suitable for all substrates. The application of the primer I used a can of spray paint (no paintbrushes, no paintbrushes pure, no streaks or hair ...). At a local paint store can I paint in aerosol to fill. Then at 24 Hr or longer to dry.

The layer of primer is then lightly sand with sandpaper with fine grit and everything checked whether there are unwanted holes or bumps. After the layer of primer, you can very well see. The remaining holes are re-dichtgeplamuurd and after drying, re-sanded. Next a primer is necessary.
The last primer is again lightly sand.

Then, we apply the paint. This drawing I did with a spray can. I did this with a black matt colour (RAL 9005). This paint is synthetic-based. Be careful when spraying that the distance is not too short, in which there is too much paint is applied with the result that the paint is dripping ... Preferably in between a minute and wait for further spraying. The paint dries fairly quickly. Than best a few days to let it dry well. If necessary, a second coat can be applied.

 

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