COMPONENTS BACK PANEL FO SIDE

The rear wall (rear wall) of the Fo I is composed of following parts:

  • Dome light;
  • Circuit breaker panel P6-1 (Nav, Inst, and Com);
  • Circuit breaker panel P6-2 (Systems) with handle;
  • Circuit breaker panel P6-3 (Fuel system, Lighting & Landing gear with handle;
  • Circuit breaker panel, P6-4 Air cond & Electrical);
  • Circuit breaker panel P6-11 (Window heat) with 2 handles;
  • Circuit breaker panel, P6-12 (Window heat) with 2 handles;
  • Circuit breaker panel P6-STBY (Power control unit) with one handle;
  • Door for (fictitious) storage (Latch);
  • 2 dummy power outlets 115V;
  • Alcove for hanging a fire extinguisher;
  • Fire extinguisher;
  • Alcove or tub for fastening rail window P2;
  • Top rail window P2;
  • Amp-stickers-CB";
  • Decals with panelnummering and inscriptions;
  • Circuit breaker button caps.

 

dsc01947DESCRIPTION

Against the back wall (rear bulkhead of the cockpit, one can find left and right 2 lamps for the interior lighting (Dome Lights).
For example, when entering in the cockpit as it is dark, or when giving a briefing to the other pilot ...

The left-hand lamp has a white half spherical enclosure or shade. The real version is equipped with 2 ‘bulbs’ which will be a big and a small ‘bulb’. The large ‘bulb’ is used in normal circumstances. The little ‘bulb’ is only used when the aircraft power loss and which the Emergency Lights switch is turned on or active.

The other ‘Dome Light’ on the right side is located above the ‘jump seat’.

In normal circumstances, the ‘Dome lights’ with power by the ‘Battery Bus’ (not the ‘Hot Battery Bus’) i.e. first the "battery" switch on the " On " for that you get the Dome Lights to turn on.
This is done through a 3 position switch on the Aft Overhead (Dim - Off – Bright). Both Dome Lights go at the same time.

The ‘Dome Light’ that I have built is the left-hand lamp with white shell.

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The real Dome Light

Dimensions of the real ‘Dome Light’ :

  • Width = 81 x 81 mm
  • Diameter white glass = 70mm
  • Height white glass = 19mm
  • Height of bracket where witglas behind to nip = 5.4 mm
  • Total height = 19mm + 5.4 mm + 1.9 mm (thickness panel)
    (Source : Michael G – Gallie)

 

PARTS

The ‘Dome Light’ I have patched together with parts that are to be found in most hobbyshops.

This ‘Dome’ Light is composed of the following components :

* Inbouwspothouder;

* Led;

The led spot with bulb holder I bought in a local electroshop. The led lamp (GU5.3 – MR16) is a regular light outlet (12V, 6,3 W >35W, dimmable, 36°).

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* Half a spherical shell;

This transparent, plastic bullets are sold in all AVA-shops in Belgium. You can use the bullet separate into 2 halves. These bullets are used to store anything, or for the hobbywereld. One can these bullets in various sizes.

Which is close to the size of the real version, I have a bullet bought with a diameter of 80 mm. This dimension of 80 mm is to take or to leave ... 🙂 (I'm depending on the bullets that are available in the AVA shop).

The convex curve at the original ‘Dome Light’ is also flatter. Also hard to find ...

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* Grey inlegpees for vliegenramen (screens);

The grey rubber ‘sausages’ are used to make the mesh in vliegenramen (mosquito nets) to terminals . The diameter is 6.6 mm.

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* Aluminium panel with round cut-out;

The aluminium panel is made from a leftovers of a plate of 2 mm thick. This panel has a circumference of 90 mm x 90 mm

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* 4 screws or bolts for the fastening.

Note. The metal retaining ring, as in the real ‘Dome Light’, we have omitted.

 

COMPOSITION

At the place where the Dome Light should come in the back panel (rear bulkhead) a round opening cut out of a diameter of 60 mm.

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In this opening is the spothouder with led light posted. Through the back of the back of the lamp with the supplied cable connected to a power supply of 12V. This via the Dome Light switch on the AFT Overhead.
I have from the edge of the (white) holder 1 to 2 mm should afvijlen. The holder must be in circumference to fit in the opening of the half bullet.

Then is the turn to the semi-circular white shell.
The transparent plastic ball from the AVA-shop it is composed of 2 halves which can be separate. One of the two halves we are going to use as a ‘lampshade’.
The plastic loop for the bulb to hang is carefully removed with a small saw.

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The outside fully sealed with tape and newsprint. Then, the inside painted in a white color. I have a primer to use with a good adhesion. I have nothing in advance, sanded. The paintwork I have done with a spray can.
After drying, one gets on the outside is a nice white shiny surface.

The next part is the making of the aluminum plate. First, is there a overschotje or leftovers of a alupaneel a opening turned of 80 mm. This work is carried out with a lathe.
Attention! The diameter of the two halves of the plastic ball have different sizes, i.e. a border for the inside and a border on the outside so they can click. So take the right half for the right opening ...

Afterwards, a square panel cut around the round opening, and this with sides of 90 mm.
On the four corners, and then 4 holes of 4 mm for bolts or screws for the fastening of the panel (with shell).
As the finish of the metal part are the 4 corners with a metaalvijl nicely rounded.
After the panel is sand and treated with a degreaser follows a layer of primer followed by a coat of Boeinggrijs (Satin). Also for the bolts or screws, of course.

As we good work delivered would be the half-white ball in the right should fit into the round opening of the aluminum panel so that the white cap good tense is in the opening. One can see the edge of the white cap, to be sure, to glue against the edge of the aluminum panel.

The last part is the turn a rubber board on the edge of the shell and alu panel. We use a inlegpees that can also be used for the clamping of fly and mosquito in vliegendeuren (mosquito nets).

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We measure the circumference of the white shell with the inlegpees and cut it off with 5 mm surplus.
The inlegpees with a sharp knife in the length, carefully cut in half. This is precision work to the middle of the tendon. The string must remain and not be twisted! Attention! Dangerous for cuts!

The tendon is at the bottom with a double-sided adhesive tape that will stick so well. I did this with double-sided adhesive tape is used from the Aldi.

The inlegpees around the white lampshade stuck. This happens without the inlegpees to stretch. The part that we have too much cut off.

The place where the 2 ends of the inlegpees each other touch, I have all the security still ‘welded’ with a drop of superglue.

There rest of us, only the aluminum panel with white cap at the back to screws on the inbouwspotje that we had mounted. Our ‘Dome Light’ is now operational and ready for use ...

 

TEST

The lamp (6,3 W), I first connected to a pc power supply (12V). Then I did the ‘Dome’ Light 3 hour burn. In the dark gives this lamp is ample light in the cockpit. The paint on the inside let enough light through. One can possibly still have the number of Watts increase to 8W.

I also have no significant problems regarding overheating. The plastic casing is a little hot and the paint on the inside holds up well (not melt or odour nuisance).

In a later stage will this ‘Dome Light’ to be built into the back wall and this, together with the ‘Circuit Breakers’panels.

Finally light in the darkness ........... 🙂

Translated by Yandex.Translate and Global Translator