DESCRIPTION:

The ‘Clock/Chrono’, it is to be found on the left and on the right edge of the MIP. One for the Capt and one F/O.

A B737-800 is used with 2 types of ‘Clocks’. An analogue version, or digital form (DISPLAY). In the picture below, there is a digital version to see it.

 

 

The Picture of the real one ...

 

Since I have been using a liquid crystal display panel and ProSim-allows the user to choose to go for the LCD version (with digital clock).

It's a concept that I will use for the construction of the ‘clock/chrono’, it is actually quite simple, and is performed according to the same principle, which is that my ‘stand-by ' Compass’.
Again, here I am using a a mini-monitor (5”) and ProSim in front of the display.
By the way, ProSim-Timing is very, very realistic finish, and is similar to that of the original design.

The composition and structure of this "Boeing's clock," is made up of 3 main parts :

  • The installation and configuration of the "have tacticle switches";
  • The mounting of the lighting level through the strip;
  • The installation and configuration of a 5-inch color LCD screen with controller card.

This is the back of my ‘stand-by ' Compass’, a low-cost solution. The total expenses of sit - on 50 Euro

The idea for this project comes from the Iain Williams.

‘Thanks to’ Iain Williams the idea of support, By Joe Lavery the tips and Property Teerlinck the board's tip and soldering.

 

THE COMPONENTS AND COMPOSITION OF THE

  • ‘The Clock Bezel with the buttons;
  • 7 ‘have tacticle switches";
  • Printed circuit board (PCB);
  • 4 segmentjes led strips with 3 leds;
  • The transparent plate is in the design;
  • 5-inch LCD screen with controller card
  • UTP network cable;
  • Double-sided adhesive tape;
  • Duct tape;
  • Pokeys Interface cards,
  • ProSim737.

The Clock bezel

The clock bezel is the border or list of around-the-clock. This ‘insert’ that I've used was the MIP, and when I've bought it. The insert was confirmed around a "dummy clock" (the plastic plate with the scale – look at the pictures) about the opening of the EIP is to complement.

The nice thing about this dummy insert is that it is made of ‘float glass’ (white, acrylic glass to let light through). It is perfect to use to figure out your support, or to build up.

The myths, legends, or markings on the bezel are a nice uitgelaserd, and only the light from the backlighting shine through.

Another advantage is that by this ‘the clock bezel is also fitted with a black, rectangular push buttons. You can very easily get out of it, and it is necessary, therefore, later, as "push buttons".


This insert is of a FlyEngravity.
Note. It is the manufacturer/supplier is out of date (2020).

‘Have tacticle switches"

The 7 buttons on the Clock to make it work (and be configured through ProSim, I have the 7 of mini-dip switches (have tacticle switches are used. These switches are very small and could easily be somewhere to be mounted.

These have tacticle switches, giving a ON when pressing the button and OFF when you remove your finger.

These are mini-connectors I bought at a local electronics store. Here is a link where you can find people who have things to sell.

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Tactile-Switches

The idea of Property Teerlinck, I ‘have tacticle switches are placed on a printed circuit board.
The first one should be measuring in what position these switches need to come out on the printed circuit board in accordance with the openings in the bezel and is also dependent on the location of the printed circuit board has to be mounted at the rear of the MIP.

The holes in the printed circuit board and the legs of the switches to fit is not 100%, therefore, it is necessary for the legs to bend.

Afterwards, you can also see the hole in the center of the ‘insert’ definition on the board.

After that, the "have tacticle switches" are in place, and the bezelopeningen nice about these switches are they are on the back side of the printed circuit board to the metallic leads.

The wires that I have to do in order to set up the connection between the switches and the Pokeyskaart the wires of a network cable (UTP cable). These wires are thick enough to be formed by the network of a community has to offer. Also, the number would be 8, 7 the have tacticle switches and 1 is for the common to GND.

Then it was time for the ‘have tacticle switches to measure whether or not everything is working (you can already connect to the Pokeys card and testing with ProSim737).

Printed circuit board (PCB)

Prior to the have tacticle switches are placed, it is first necessary to have the well-delineated picture of the bezelopening’ cut out of the printed circuit board. This opening corresponds to the hole in the middle of the ‘bezel’.

This board is built with all of the holes on the back side are etched. All the holes are in a straight line, all connected with each other and further connections have to do with the wires.

In order for a connection to be broken at the end, only an etched portion of the way to the hole (pause).

This is why we need to be taken into account where these lines allows for holes to be drilled for mounting at the MIP and that can be connectors, cancel, or suspend ...

The printed circuit board, that is, after the whole clock to the MIPS attached with screws. These are the original bolts and the original holes that had to be the "dummy clock" to confirm the fees in the MIP.

Attention ! It is going to only be using 2 of the screws on the MIP as on the other 2 bolts, the LCD screen is in the way (depending on which way the LCD screen swivels – inside or outside, MIP).

The size of the printed circuit board(PCB) of his 150 mm x 100 mm) (it also depends on the space you have available behind the MIP). The printed circuit board is available for purchase in a each of the electronic hobbyshop.

4 Segmentjes led strips with 3 leds

The backlighting of the clock, and I have led strips are used. You cannot strip buy one per half or per meter, which is composed of different segmentjes of 3 smd leds. There needs to be cut in 4 slices, from which you paste between the ‘have tacticle switches " around the hole in the middle of the board).

This strip was, for me, is the easiest solution, as that will just fit in between the switches/buttons. The leds, on the contrary, corresponds to the illuminated text (labels) to the ‘insert’ (at least almost all of them).

This ledsegmentjes are connected to each other, and at the end of the day, is connected with the FlyEngravity backlightcontroller (or dimmer switch). This is a backlight controller for adjusting (dimming) of the various components of my cockpit.

However, a disadvantage of these strips is that they can illuminate all the same ‘bright lights’. Thus, the dimming is required, or the use of a resistor.

Not all of the leds are required, therefore, I have the led's that do not need to be painted black so they don't have the light to pass through.

These strips have a slice with a dimension of (50 mm x 8 mm and it can be connected to 12 volt.

The base is self-adhesive.

There might be some other solutions are independent of the micro-smdleds, to be frank.

A transparent plate in the design

After that, the hole in the printed circuit board is made, and the " have tacticle switches, and led strips + all the wires are attached, I have a transparent plexiplaatje on top of whatever else is put in.

The purpose of this picture is that the have tacticle switches " in this sink, along with the variety of led's, ledweerstandjes, and the wires on the printed circuit board assembly.

Thus, in all the places where there is a led light, or a mini-switch or a wire, that is, in this plexiplaatje a hole is drilled or slot milled in to allow all these elements to begin with this plexiglass plate.
Where are the holes for the "have tacticle switches", you have to be careful that the holes are not too big to be made. It is a part of the opening, seen in the context of the display.

All of the holes in which the leds come in, I have to have the interior painted black to avoid all the indirect lighting effect on the clockdisplay. This will help, but avoiding it is difficult.

This plexiglass plate is in one piece, without bezelopening in the middle, such as when the printed circuit board). This is in order to have the strength to maintain with all the drilling and cutting).

This is the circuit board with double-sided adhesive tape. This plexiglass plate can be too small holes will be drilled according to the holes in the MIP, and the printed circuit board for the mounting of the unit against the MIP.

The plexiglass plate is the actual part that is directly to the rear of the MIP to come. So, no, the printed circuit board, or ‘insert’.

The plexiglass plate has a diameter of 120 mm x 100 mm) and 3 mm fat.

When we are ready, that is, the "clock insert" in turn, is fixed to the plexiglass plate, and the openings are in line with the hole in the middle, and the holes for the " have tacticle switch + leds. These are fastened with double-sided adhesive tape or the contents.

5-inch LCD screen with controller card

A key part of the plan for the construction of the ‘Boeing and the clock is in the display, or the use of a 5-inch LCD screen.

This is a 5” LCD I bought from GOOD DISPLAY.

This LCD kit includes :

  • Brand New 5.0 TFT LCD Module 800 x480Dots
  • 2 x AV + VGA Input Driving Board
  • The DC power supply cable
  • VGA Cable
  • 2 AV input cable
  • The IR receiver
  • IR remote controller

On the VGA, a/v controller, 5 ports :

  • Power supply (12 V);
  • VGA cable,
  • A / v cable;
  • The Module for control (IR-receiver);
  • The VGA controller board to the LCD screen.

The dimensions are in the height of the displayUp to 65 mmthe visible area of the screen) is exactly equivalent to the size of the opening of the clock bezel (LCD screen is tilted).
This LCD screen is to be used for the stand-by Instrument (80 mm) in the FlyEngravity-MIP, this is a bit too small.

The LCD screen on the back side of the circuit board.

At the rear side of the printed circuit board is as smooth as possible, to make the thick tip as much as possible, smooth it to perfection.

Then I put it on the back side of the printed circuit board, and a self-adhesive, foam (foam) glued to the screen as much as possible, to protect, and to avoid damage from the rough back side of the printed circuit board (in isolation).

And then I have all the available edges, of the LCD-display, double-sided adhesive tape is applied and the screen in the right place, at the rear side of the printed circuit board is printed.

It must, however, be observed, that it is available for display corresponds to the opening of the ‘insert’ !

Be careful ! You will notice that one of the side edges of the LCD screen over the holes means that anything that is placed in the EIP. The display is one time larger than the distance between the original holes in the FlyEngravity-MIP. Here, then, is faced with the choice of the left or the right, depending on whether you have the LCD screen allows you to tilt it to either side you have enough space.

I've been to the top of the printed circuit board, an additional hole is drilled in the printed circuit board (and thus the rest of the group to which it is attached) can be screw on at the rear MIP. This is what the MIP and the individual's resources.

If the LCD screen on the circuit board, you all have to ‘protect’ the screen on the back, with the ‘Duct-tape’ that you can attach to the printed circuit board/plexiglass plate.

The VGA controller card (driving board) that I have on the back of the LCD panel attached. Also, using the double-sided adhesive tape. 2 strips of stick on the back of the VGA card, and then press down on the back of the LCD screen.

I've got a couple of layers of tape are used so that the LCD screen is not touch.

The connection from the LCD screen using the VGA controller board is done with a ‘flat cable ‘(1-40).

The VGA controller will be in the 2 grey ‘hooks’ in the connector so that the flat cable can be inserted. The plain cable to the " 1 " in the outside of the card, and the kabelzijde with a ‘40’ will be on the inside of the card.
Then, the ‘hooks’ to ‘locked’ so that the flat cable is in place.

For it is the power of the 12V I used the supplied power supply cable (12 V) to the adapterzijde is cut off, and you will be connected to the pc's power supply (12 V) in the cockpit. On the other hand, it is the small flat-pin plug connected to the graphics card (the Red color-12V is on the outside map, it will also be included on the back of the card).

The connection of the VGA cable, that speaks for itself.

And then we have the black push buttons, to place it in the holes on the ‘bezel’. The confirmation is done by using double-sided adhesive tape on the back side of the rivet.

Through the use of appropriate thickness of the plexiglass plate, and the thickness of the double-sided adhesive tape, sticking the black buttons to a couple of inches above the ‘insert’ out, so it was perfect.

 

CONFIRMATION AT THE EIP

The Clock and Insert’ the hour (plexiglass plate, pc board, LCD display and VGA card) are in the appropriate opening on the MIP unit. If the holes are just holes drilled in plexiglas and a printed circuit board, the cavities in the MIP, the same and the full structure is’ screw at the EIP.

As has already been noted, this will only be the 2 screws on one side of the FlyEngravity-MIP in the other versions, I know it's not).

You will notice that one of the side edges of the LCD screen over the holes means that anything that is placed in the EIP. The display is one time larger than the distance between the original and the holes in the MIP. Here, then, is faced with the choice of the left or the right, depending on whether you have the LCD screen allows you to tilt it to either side you have enough space.

I've been to the top of the printed circuit board, an additional hole is drilled in the printed circuit board to the rest of it) you can screw it against the back of MIP. This is what the MIP and the individual's resources.

To make the holes for the bolts on the other side to fill the can about 1/3 of the nuts to use it.

 

CONNECTIONS AND SETUP

‘Have tacticle switches"

The have tacticle switches connected to the Pokeys Card. Any port is good, except for 43 to 47 of which are reserved for analog control (e.g. potentiometers) and the ports to GND. It is the common GND of the have tacticle switches to’ connected to it.

Open Prosim737/Configuration/Switch’ :

In the tab "Switches" are all features that are necessary for the operation of the Timing/Clock for both the capt and f/o).

  • The press of a button on the Clock bezel (if all is properly connected, you will see at the top of the "Switches" tab, the number of the Pokeys card connected to the port. If you always press to skip to the 0 to 1, and
  • Then, choose from the list to the right chronofunctie the "Push" option, and then press the adjacent "A". Automatically, you can see to the right of the card name and be connected to the port;
  • Use the same procedure for the other chronofuncties;
  • If all of the chronofuncties have been configured, press the bottom-right, click OK.
Backlighting
 
The ledsegmentjes, which are connected to each other, I continued to stay connected to the FlyEngravity backlight controller . This is a backlight controller for adjusting (dimming) of the leds/leds in my cockpit.
One of the other dimmer switch is ok, because if the led's on and the timing is 100% to burn to give them too much light.
.
LCD screen
.
The LCD screen using a VGA cable on any of the cockpitcomputer to be connected to which of the ProSim Display module allows the user to rotate.

As for the 2the the monitor is also on this LCD screen is to be configured and identified in Windows.

Here, you can directly update through Windows or the control panel of the pc graphics card (e.g. Nvidia control panel).

It is very important to the small-screen in its proper place between the other monitors.

In the control panel of your graphics card using the picture 90° clockwise, since the LCD screen is on the long side at the EIP is attached.

You can also do this with a tool, such as iRotate (http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/irotate.shtm).

Also, it is important for a proper resolution to the monitor normal form of the Clock and allows the user to view the report.

In this liquid crystal display is provided with a native resolution of 800 x 480 pixels, tipped with 480 x 800).

If this resolution is not applicable to this resolution to create, and add it through the control panel of your video card.

Other screen resolutions can be used (either 720 x 1280 or 768 x 1200).

ProSim Display

Now the LCD screen is ok, it's just the Prosim Clock " in the display, to set, to put it in the right size.

This is why we have a separate ProSim Display module to start up. In the menu, choose ‘Displays/MIPS/allows the user to take 1-2-or allows the user to Digital 1-2.

(I went for the LCD version in a digital format. This is mainly due to the use of the LCD screen, and the softversie of the ProSim).

The size of the clock can be changed by the clock, clicking on it and resizing it with the mouse wheel. Moving is done by dragging them with the mouse. It is also the pijljes keys.

The size is set in such a way that you can drag and drop it on the LCD screen (not too small or too large).

Once they're in the middle of the LCD screen may be your first time, it windowscherm’ to focus on so that it is on the edges of the clock bezel’.

Then, in the menu ‘Configuration’ and tick the box next to ‘Draw a frame around instruments (ti) is finished. The gray market ‘insert’, it will go away.

You can also opt for ‘Full Screen’.

Then, turn the clock back to enlarge or reduce the opening of the ‘bezel’ is completely filled, with the clock display, and so on in the middle.

Then go back into the menu ‘Configuration’ and tick the box next to " Lock the display positions on. The screen is now locked, and you won't be able to with a careless click of everything is undesirable to move it.

 

THE OPERATION OF THE CONTROL BUTTONS

For operation of the buttons, here is a sample attached to it from the FCOM. All, I have not yet tested it, and I don't know if everything has been correctly implemented in ProSim. 

Chronograph (CHR) Control (1)

PUSH

  • controls the start, stop and reset functions of the CHR display and second hand with successive pushing
  • overrides any existing ET display.

- Time/Date Indicator (2)

  • displays UTC or manual time (hours, minutes) when time is selected with the time/date pushbutton
  • alternately displays day–month and year when date is selected with the time/date pushbutton.

 Chronograph Second Hand (3)

  • indicates chronograph seconds and
  • controlled by the CHR control.

Elapsed Time (ET) and RESET Pushbutton (4) 

Controls the elapsed time function:

  • select the ET pushbutton once to run the elapsed time
  • select the ET pushbutton again to hold the elapsed time
  • select the RESET pushbutton to set the elapsed time to 0.

The RUN or HLD symbol is displayed on the lower left part of the LCD display.

The TIME/DATE Pushbutton (5)

The Controls in the time/date function:

  • select the TIME/DATE pushbutton once to see UTC time
  • select the TIME/DATE pushbutton again to see UTC date
  • select the TIME/DATE pushbutton again to see manual time
  • select the TIME/DATE pushbutton again to see manual date.

The UTC or MAN symbol is displayed on the upper right part of the LCD display.

In MAN mode, clock time and date come from the clock. In UTC mode, clock time and date come from the global positioning system (cms).

SET of push button (6)

Controls the setting of manual time and date:

With manual time displayed:

  • select the SET pushbutton once and the hours flash, use the plus or minus pushbutton to adjust the hours
  • select the SET pushbutton again and the minutes flash, use the plus or minus pushbutton to adjust the minutes
  • select the SET pushbutton again to run the time.

With manual date displayed:

  • select the SET pushbutton once and the day flashes, use the plus or minus pushbutton to adjust the day
  • select the SET pushbutton again and the month flashes, use the plus or minus pushbutton to adjust the month
  • select the SET pushbutton again and the year flashes, use the plus or minus pushbutton to adjust the year,
  • select the SET pushbutton again to run the date.

Note: A delay of greater than one minute while setting the time or date results in the clock-reverting to the previous time/date setting.

Elapsed Time (ET)/Chronograph Indicator (7)

  • displays elapsed time (hours, minutes) or chronograph minutes
  • the chronograph display replaces the elapsed time display
  • elapsed time continues to run in the background and displays after the chronograph has been reset.

The Plus (+) and Minus (-) Pushbuttons (8)

Used to set the manual time and date:

  • select the + pushbutton to increase the value of
  • select the – pushbutton to decrease the value.

 

 

Some of the photos :

The end of the story ......

Translated by Yandex.Translate and Global Translator